Tuesday, September
20, 2011
On our third day in
Saigon, we’ve awakened before most of the motor bikers, in time for a short
walk to the city’s parks, where a few early birds volley at badminton without
nets, others stroll and talk, and several groups of twenty or more people
gather for group calisthenics, surprisingly set to the beat of Madonna and “On
the Bayou” in Vietnamese.
They alternately stretch, reach, and kick, some following a leader for encouragement, others following their own rhythm. One man stands silent, unmoving, his hands clasped in contemplation. nearby, a group of teenagers tumble, jump, and walk on their hands in pairs, obeying the commands of their coach, the one slightly closer to adulthood.
Soon enough, the
motor scooters take over, bringing thousands of young couples to work. One by
one, they stop at the sidewalk and step off; unlatching the seat, they trade
her helmet for a purse and some lunch, kiss goodbye, close the seat lid, and
move on separately to the start of their days.
A leisurely day of
exploring gives way to an evening arrival at the Toum Teav, a boat that might
have carried Humphrey Bogart or Lana Turner to a matinee adventure, all dark
wood, white railings, and wicker deck chairs with red cushions. It’s inspiring,
and makes all our eyes sparkle with anticipation.
Fittingly, we set
sail at sunset, watching the impressive new skyline of Saigon fade into the
distance, as we move along an increasingly dark river. Tomorrow is sure to
bring a completely new world.
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